Local Voices: The Cider Maker
A conversation with a Western New York orchard owner and how he became the apple of the region’s eye, thanks to his innovative hard ciders.
Q: Can you tell us a little about your brand?
A: In 2023, I sold the Blackbird Cider brand and refocused my energy on a new cider venture called Donovan Orchards Estate Ciders, which are a higher end, more artisanal version sold only in glass bottles. We use single varietals that are special to cider and sparkling ciders using more traditional methods, which are basically like the way champagne is made. Unlike my last venture, which sold our ciders in stores across seven states, now they’re only served at the orchard’s tasting room.
Q: What can guests expect at the Tasting Room?
A: The Tasting Room experience is not one to be missed, thanks to its warm environment and beautiful location. It’s situated right in the orchard, so you're within 20 feet of a row of apple trees. We really specialize in an elevated cider tasting experience in terms of learning about hard cider, how it's made and having each guest experience quality ciders they may never have had before. Our staff is very knowledgeable about not only the different ciders that we produce, but also how they're made, the types of apples that we use, specific varieties, etc.
Q: What kind of apples do you grow? Do you have a favorite apple?
A: We grow over 30 varieties of apples on the property, including varieties that are meant to be eaten fresh and plenty that are cultivated to be used in hard cider. We’re currently producing 18-20 different types of cider. It’s hard to pick favorites, but I’d have to go with the Russet Apple as being particularly special, due to its history in the region as one of the country’s oldest apples. It’s currently available as a single varietal cider as well. The Rhode Island Green is another one that we grow and also make a single varietal with, and that particular apple was being grown in the United States in the 1600s.
Q: What do you enjoy about living in Niagara County?
A: The tremendous and diverse agriculture of the Niagara region is my favorite part of living here. There are all sorts of crops being grown here, from pumpkins to beans and corn. With that, you get great access to fresh food, and I have the perfect partner in crime for my frequent shopping trips. My wife loves to cook. She's actually a trained chef, and we enjoy going to local farmer’s markets and picking out things for a meal.
Donovan Orchards Estate Ciders is open Wednesday-Sunday between 11 a.m. and 6 p.m., times vary. Learn about cider tastings, orchard tours and more here.
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